Everyone who's been to Hunza tells you the same thing before you go: nothing prepares you for turning a corner and seeing Rakaposhi appear over the valley. They're right.

A rough route for a first trip: fly or drive into Gilgit, spend a few days in Hunza for the valley views and Baltit Fort, push further to Skardu as your base for Deosai's rolling plateau and the approach to K2 base camp trekking routes, and if time allows, Swat for green hillsides that feel almost Alpine.

Roads are improving every year but still slow — budget more travel days than you think you need, and let the drive itself be part of the trip rather than an obstacle to it.